Q. Also, Where should I start if I want an additional room and both bathrooms remodeled? I have 3 contractors bidding and want to get the best one for the job. Thanks in advance. Any help would be appreciated..Thanks.

A. Ask for references and recent locations of jobs they have done. The best contractors will be glad to show off their work, and the people they have worked for should be enthusiastic about letting you see that work. If you do not or cannot get this type of reference, you are gambling with your money. This is step one. Without it, there is no reason to proceed. Definitely mention there is future work proposed, it will make them sharpen their pencils to get the first job. Do not commit to further work until you see enough of first job. Know exactly what you want as far as finished products, fixtures, flooring etc. Changing this along the way can jack up costs pretty quick. Make sure contract spells out everything that is discussed during bids. You should have a plan drawn by an architect if possible. Make sure payment schedule is spelled out and you are satisfied with progress of work for each payment. Final payment should not be given until you are satisfied, and all construction permits are closed out if your job requires permits.

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Q. I am thinking about doing it myself but my sister ect say you have to hire someone.I am not sure i have to.

A. Most hardwood flooring goes for $3-4 per sqft. while installation will run you an additional $5 per sqft. Sit in on one of the Saturday seminars at Home Depot or grab a book on do it yourself flooring tips for around $10. It's not as hard as people make it out to be and with a little confidence in your own abilities you can save over 50% vs. professional installation.

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Q. I'm trying to put a jacuzzi on the second floor of a 92 year old home. I know the floor needs additional load capacity, and I want a professional to do this due to the high risk. General contractors say they'll get back to me, but not one has. All the carpenters I can find do highly ornamental decorative stuff. Is there something specific I should be looking for?

A. A general contractor should be able to do that. it will probably require a lot of tearing out of ceiling on the first floor, so it will probably be costly.

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Q. Hi there I am getting a new floor, but I have not contacted anyone yet about it except for one guy who said for my kitchen it would approx 300-400.00 and my kitchen is13 ' 7 x 11 ' 8 and I am wondering if this is a good price? here is his email: Thank you for your response and your pictures. Tile installation is all I do so I can confidently say I can give you a great tile job. My price is 3.00/sq f. So for a floor you size ( at 143 sq f) it could be between $357.50 + tax or $429.00 + tax for installation. It my also take between 2-3 day, probably 2 days. Things that add to the price for any installer is ripping up of old tile, leveling floors, and installing sub floor if there is any movement in the floor after the tile is ripped up. If any of this can be done first before you have a tile setter come in it will save money. But If would like to book me I can definitely build you a great tile floor. Email me any time. I check my email every evening. Looking forward to your business. I was looking for duraceramic at first, but I dont know if he has that so something just as strong would do. Also, when he is quoting me, is this just the installation with no material's? Ive never had this done before, so I am trying to not get screwed over. Thanks :-) Also, I noticed that home hardware does flooring installations, are they are any good/reasonable ?

A. Its a good price for labor only for ceramic or the Dura Ceramic as you are also looking at. Two totally different type products and installation methods. Sub flooring is required for ceramic products. I do suggest a thin wood subfloor for the DuraCeramic. Glues needed for this type really need a fresh flooring to bond to. Unless you have a slab sub floor now, then no additional subfloor is needed or required. Home centers do offer good installation but you have to check qualifications on any and all installers. Any questions you can e mail me through my avatar and check my qualifications there. GL

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Q. I have a concret floor under my carpet now. Going to take up the carpet.

A. I agree with e_spehr_99. In addition to the concerns she identified, there is the issue of moisture in a concrete subfloor. Improper installation can quickly turn your expensive investment into a nightmare. Don't be mislead by the TV home improvement shows. They make everything look so easy. Keep in mind that they work in ideal conditions and rely on experienced tradesmen. Chances are, you will not be so lucky. This is probably the time to rely on the services of a reputable hardwood flooring contractor. You will have the piece of mind that a warranty offers as well as a workable solution to your installation problems. Good luck with your flooring project.

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Q. Okay, I am days away from closing on my new house. The house was built in 1992 and is in sound condition but the there is some updating to be done. A list of what I want done can be found below... Kitchen: New cabinets, Counters, Back-splash, fixtures and Appliances. Baths: Not much just new vanity's and tops for 2 baths Pool: Install Heat Pump Additional things: New Carpet in 3 bedrooms on the second level and the stairs (750 SF), paint for the entire inside of the house, tear out of in the wall intercom system w/drywall repair (4 units) and lastly the Replacement of 7 light fixtures. I don't want anything over the top and the house is only 1500 SF. I have done a lot of pricing at Lowe's, Home Depot, Express Flooring and a few local paining company's. I have planned to spend about $30,000 for all these projects but am starting to get overwhelmed with the details and not exactly sure where to start, I need to move into the house before March 1st but want all this work done first. So my question is, should I use the install services of the multiple company's that I have already priced or just hire a General Contractor? Thanks in advance!!! P.S No, I have not paid for, ordered or settled on any exact materials for these projects yet. The $30,000 I have calculated includes the cost of all materials I have priced and each company's labor/install charges. Those numbers came to $26,000 I am bugeting $4000 over for any last miniute things.

A. Hi M, Well I will suggest you to visit a website http://www.gharexpert.com Where you will find helpful tips regarding hiring a contractor, budget estimate, expert's help with construction and interior decor articles,pictures and more. Do make a visit

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Q. I am a tenant of a single family home in Colorado. I have a very general lease that states I cannot make any alterations or improvements to the property without permission. It states I cannot place nails or screws into the walls, floors or ceilings without permission. Apparently I need permission before hanging up a picture frame. The landlord is denying the installation of a wirless security system through ADT which uses double-face tape for each of the magnetic contacts which would be on the vinyl-framed windows. He states he doesn't want it to be his problem and the windows are new and doesn't want them damaged. While I understand his concern, I feel it is a little compulsive to deny the application of non-permanant magnetic contacts that require zero drilling/nailing, etc and leave behind no residue. Is it legal for him deny the security system and in addition, must I get permission before mounting pictures, etc? Is it legal to stipulate these conditions in a lease in CO?

A. When you signed the lease you agreed to the terms. I've never seen a double-face tape that doesn't leave a residue. Either way, you signed the lease, so he can enforce it. It would be best for you to negotiate with him, maybe offer more of a security deposit, or offer to let him be there when it is installed.

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Q. I have a Trane heat pump about 5 yrs old. It is an average sized system you typically find in an average size home. I suspect it has a problem and I am hoping someone can tell me more. I have already had plenty of input from the backyard handyman, so now I am hoping to hear from professionals. First of all, I will start by telling you a problem that it had back in the summer. I have no idea whether or not it is related to the problem I am having now. In the spring, when it was first getting warm enough to use air conditioning, The fan in the outside unit would not run. The unit was making a buzzing sound like it was trying to run, but it rarely would do so. The air conditioning would not cool. It just blew out warm air. I had it repaired by my local heating and cooling shop, the same one that installed the unit when it was new. I had no more problem until recently. Now, it has the same symptoms again. The outside unit just makes a buzzing noise, but the fan hardly ever runs. If I go out and check 10 times, the fan might be running 1 out of the 10. I have stayed outside and waited 30 minutes to see if the fan would start running, and it never does. Since this problem started, I have seen the fan run a couple of times, and when it does, it seems normal. It does not seem to be seizing up or anything. It does not make an unusual sound when it runs. The system is still heating normally without having to switch to emergency heat. If I never went out and looked at the outside unit, I would not have known anything was wrong. We have had quite a bit of cold weather, some nights have been in the single digits, and the unit seems to behave the same whether it is 5 degrees or 35 degrees. The unit is in use every day (at least at night). Once or twice a week when we are home all day, we use a wood burning stove and do not use the heat pump, sometimes in the evenings, we burn wood and the unit is off for 4-5 hrs, but other than that, the thermostat is set to 65-70 all the time.

A. Check all wires for connections If capacitor was not replace when new motor was installed or is mismatch with what the fan motor calls for that may very well be the issue Check contactor for signs of pitting Possible the defrost control board may be faulty and the unit is going into defrost mode when it should not be and hence it turning the fan off. The other thing that comes to mind is there is a pre-timed delay for defrost operation of the heat pump by default it should be set on the control board via the jumper at 30. There are 3 settings 30,60 and 90.. It possible the unit is set on a 90 min defrost cycle and that why you never or hardly ever see the fan spinning. It needs to be set on 30. Quick note for you when heat pump goes into defrost mode, fan shuts off, compressor is running, and there is a change in pitch from compressor. When unit comes out of defrost mode, fan should turn back on. Also, if you thermostat is digital it should bring on Aux heat to maintain comfort levels while unit is in defrost mode. In addition when heat pump cant keep up heat wise, the stat may bring on the aux heat as well to keep temps up. To test the board on the unit, there is a test terminal 2 pins that have to be jumped. If the unit will not go into defrost mode the board is bad and needs to be replaced. Your getting ample power to the unit from what it sounds like or the compressor would not run. So you need to look at the things I mentioned. If the did not replace the dual run capacitor that would be my first check that A the original motor may have not been bad and B the slapped a motor in and now it hit or miss when it runs.

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